As promised, here are the highlights from the MAC AW2012 Makeup Trends from New York, Milan, Paris and London fashion weeks. One of my makeup artists saw the book at home and she freaked. So I figured some of you makeup pros and fanatics who didn’t make it to the MAC show would appreciate this. Words aren’t mine; they’re from the book recap.
Sense and Sensibility
Healthy, sensible, honed, balanced, understated, elegant, effortless and groomed. It’s somewhat a rural approach to city makeup: while the inspiration takes an equestrian, aristocratic, ‘country’ angle, the impeccable application is definitely ‘town’. “I’m calling it Sense and Sensibility makeup,” explains Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s about timeless classics done in a modern way – these are elements of makeup that never go out of fashion but simply get reinvented,” agrees Terry Barber.
The perfect cleansing focus of a lip (make it nothing but a Russian red). The mastery of a gentle outdoors flush (must be seamless). Studies in what constitutes a modern bare face (p.s., it’s a fuller brow). These looks ultimately carry a sophistication that elevates them beyond trend, becoming instead a new set of modern Classics.
A globally influenced independent woman is channeled this season, but think less ‘boho-festival goer’ and more ‘grown up gypsy’. There’s a certain eccentricism, but this world traveller is honed, not haphazared. From a stained soulful tints through to mesmerizing jewel-like metallics, it’s a trend that focuses on playing with the proportion and depth of an eye (perhaps bringin in a rustically tinted lip for balance). Call it a contemporary rethink on how to do ‘smoky’.
“Fashion wants to revisit a smoldery eye, but the issue is in devising one that isn’t trashy or retro,” ponders Terry Barber. Hence the focus on a mascara-less lash, and colours with a more antiquated patina and diffuse application than those dripping in jetsetting-luxuriousness.
While a black liquid liner can be inextricably linked with the past (a Twenties flapper, Forties feline, Fifties wings, Sixties flicks, Seventies punk, Eighties New Wave…), makeup artists this season have shrugged off the liners’ retro connotations and are considering the contemporary graphicism of a black line interpreted in an unconventional manner. “This season isn’t about liner being classic,” explains Gordon Espinet. “It’s about liner as an etching, about it creating a geometry on the face. Beauty is very much in this detail, though. For while these lines are fragmented in their structure, by respecting the architecture of the eye shape, they tailor and still very much enhance the face.
Exploring the construction and contour sof ao face isn’t a brand new idea in beauty, yet for AW2012 the concept of sculpting continues in an increasingly cerebral direction. In its purest form, this look is about a nude sculptural face as a canvas for a brow (straighter, stronger and more purposefully groomed, from which the other features seem to hang) — indeed, a brow is the axis of what makes these honed, nude looks contemporary.
“It’s a highly technical form of beauty,” adds Terry Barber, of the myriad manners and devices employed to create it. This trend is absolutely about proper placement of a highlight and a contour. “To put in bone structure is a very knowing art form and the real mastery of being a makeup artist,” adds Terry.